Cross Santander on a motorcycle
- Simon Gygax
- May 26, 2023
- 4 min read
Santander
Report about intensive motorcycling courses for deaf-mutes, goats as barricades, crazy sights and experiences in one of the most exciting districts of Colombia.

In Bucaramanga, according to my own statement, there are more motorcycles than people and more motorcycle repair shops than supermarkets. The "Ciudad Bonita" is, like almost all Colombian cities, a place where you can reach your destination faster by motorcycle than by any other means of transport.
Renting a motorcycle, however, is another story. I found three providers on the internet, none of which seem to actually exist. Due to the high rate of theft, the motorcycle rental business does not seem very lucrative. I go through the area with most of the motorcycle workshops, I ask for help from some contacts. Only after a whole day of searching I finally find a workshop that can rent me a motorbike.
In my euphoria I forget that I don't really know how to drive a motorcycle, I don't even know how to start it. The 15-year-old girl who serves me doesn't seem able to help me either. So an old man, deaf and dumb, passing by on the road, has to fix it. He explains to me in sign language how to drive a motorcycle, including changing gears. After a few miserable attempts in a parking lot and some near-death experiences, I feel ready for the Colombian roads. The fact that in Colombia you drive on the right is a small consolation. Cars, motorcycles, bicycles, pedestrians, dogs and other creatures come from everywhere - they don't signal, but they whistle - and constantly.
On the other hand, Colombia's highway system is very advantageous. Instead of street names to honor some semi-famous person, here the streets are numbered logically, vertically from 1 to 200 and horizontally from 1 to 200. Even without a navigation system, you'll soon find your way.
Bucaramanga is the capital of the "Santander" district. Very few tourists who visit Colombia make it here. After a week touring the district on a motorbike, it's hard for me to understand. There is much to see and experience.
Zapatoca
If you go by car from Bucaramanga to Zapatoca, the two-hour ride is already your destination. The path leads through the Cañón de las Iguanas and a bridge that crosses the Sogamoso River. The paths are dotted with cacti and exotic plants, and the view of the canyon is impressive. Zapatoca itself is a small town with traditional houses and also very worth seeing. From there you can make many excursions to waterfalls, lagoons and viewpoints.
Chicamocha Canyon
The Chicamocha Canyon is nothing less than the second largest canyon in the world and the landmark of the Santander district in Colombia. If you go by car from Bucaramanga to San Gil, you will be able to see it during the three hours that the journey lasts. You can cross in a paraglider for the equivalent of 30 euros and in a gondola for a little less than 10 euros. The panorama is indescribable.
Cepita
Above the Chicamocha Canyon, between Bucaramanga and San Gil, a small dirt road leads to the town of Cepita. The dirt road is very rocky. Goats and other obstacles make it difficult to pass. But if the trucks can pass, so can my motorcycle. The 12 kilometer journey is worth it. Cepita is a charming little town, from here you can make spectacular day trips and the view of the canyon is spectacular.
San Gil
The small town of San Gil is the most famous place in the district. People come here mainly to practice extreme sports. In addition to rafting and bungee jumping, there is an adventure park where you can cross kilometer-long zip lines, climb waterfalls and climb through the jungle. Various tours and excursions can also be started from there, for example to Barichara, considered the "most beautiful town in Colombia". San Gil is never boring and is always worth a visit.
“Las Gachas” in Guadeloupe
In Guadalupe, about two hours by motorbike south of San Gil, you will find an impressive natural spectacle. It is about the "Gachas", a reddish rock path adorned with more than 250 small natural jacuzzis. Crystal clear water flows along the path, which is about a kilometer long, so that one has the feeling of moving with the clouds in the sky. Some of the sources are naturally interconnected, so you can swim from one side to the other. Also, the wet rocks can be used as slides to slide down to the hot tubs. The last time I had this much fun was in kindergarten.
Mesa de Los Santons
Just 40 minutes from Bucaramanga is the "Mesa de los Santos" plateau, part of the Andes mountain range (Cordillera Oriental), near the Chicamocha ravine.
At 1,700 meters above sea level, you can enjoy the view accompanied by the most famous variety of coffee in Colombia (Mesa de los Santos coffee) or go on countless excursions. The most spectacular hike takes about two hours through bushes and rocks to the "Santa Rita" waterfall. In the dry season, the water level of the small lagoon is low and the water flow is very low. You can swim in the lagoon and take a shower under the almost 100 meter high waterfall. I have never felt more free. Luckily I only noticed the snakes in the water at the end.






















































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