Cartagena, the city of contrasts

A report of conquerors, city walls and involuntary foot massages

Contrast of the city: View over the tin roofs of Tierra Bombas to Cartagena's skyline

If you read about the history of Latin America, most sources start with the discovery of the continent by Europeans, led by Christopher Columbus. The history of the city of Cartagena is also based on its foundation in 1533 (a good 40 years after Columbus' arrival) by the Spanish conquistador Pedro Heredia. But as historian Yuval Noah Harari, among others, correctly documents in his book "Sapiens" (which everyone must have read), human presence has existed on the Latin American continent for at least 14,000 years. At that time, the first humans advanced onto a continent with incredible flora and fauna - Harari writes of birds, mammals and reptiles that threatened the newcomers both from the air and on the ground. By using primitive weapons and instruments such as fire, the first indigenous peoples managed to subdue these animal enemies and control the environment. Conversely, however, this meant that within a short time a large proportion of the species of the time became extinct.

As is well known, the same fate befell most indigenous peoples themselves when the Spanish discovered the continent. Cartagena was the second colonial city founded by the conquistadors on the territory of present-day Colombia, after Santa Marta, and one of the first important colonial cities in South America. At that time, various indigenous peoples lived in the area of today's Cartagena, the majority of whom belonged to the "Chibcha". Since these peoples lived in smaller tribes detached from their neighbouring tribes, there was no large indigenous association, which is why it was very easy for the Spaniards to subjugate the peoples. Contrary to popular belief, however, this did not always happen in a brutal and ruthless manner. In Cartagena, for example, "India Catalina", an indigenous woman who was captured by the Spanish, then deliberately made multilingual and brought up under Spanish culture and Christian beliefs, was used as a mediator. Catalina saved some indigenous populations from violent conquest by the Spanish by explaining the intentions of the conquerors and convincing them to adopt the Catholic faith and submit. She was of great importance to the founding of Cartagena de Indias for the Spaniards and is still revered today as a peacemaker.

Resistant indigenous people, on the other hand, were indeed enslaved or murdered. However, a much larger proportion of the indigenous people did not die from violence, but from the countless diseases introduced by the Spaniards. Some of the surviving indigenous people reluctantly assimilated into colonial society or fled to other areas. Cartagena became an important hub of colonial wholesale trade. Riches captured on raids were traded here, as were slaves abducted from West Africa. The mixing of all these peoples over the centuries led to Cartagena's society (as well as that of all of South America) being more diverse today than the stock images in marketing catalogues of large corporations.

The city became very rich and prosperous within a very short time and repeatedly fell victim to brutal attacks by English and French pirates. In 1586, the Spanish King Philip II had had enough and ordered the construction of the fortress of San Felipe de Barajas, the largest defensive structure built by the Spanish in Latin America. It was supplemented by an 11km-long city wall, the so-called "Murallas". The structure is considered a masterpiece of military architecture and Cartagena has since been considered "unassailable".

Today, the "Murallas" enclose the old town of Cartagena and make the big city one of the most contrasting cities in the world, or at least in Colombia. Tourism is booming within the city walls - hotel rooms, pizzas and cocktails are more expensive here than toilet paper in Switzerland during the first Corona lockdown. The old cannons on the "Murallas" now serve only as nice decoration, while you can fill your lamp and empty your wallet in the "Cafe del Mar" overlooking the sea. Street vendors try to sell tourists everything that can be sold - from short live rap performances, self-made jewellery, water and beer to boat tours to beautiful island destinations such as "Playa Blanca", "Bora-Bora", "Isla Grande", "Baru" or "Rosario", all of which I can advise against (according to reliable sources, the islands are beautiful, but as a tourist, you are mainly regarded as a walking ATM).

Outside the "Murallas", on the other hand, one finds a completely different picture. The city appears more chaotic, countless street markets and simpler houses characterise the city's middle class. The "Afueras" (suburbs) of Cartagena, on the other hand, are partly characterised by deepest poverty, the simplest basic needs such as water or electricity supply are not given here. And in the beach areas, huge hotel complexes have been built in the last decades, the skyline can now easily compete with New York. So it's a big contrast, from the historic, clean and beautiful old town to the poorer areas outside the "Murallas" to the big-city-like beachfront dotted with skyscrapers.

And then there's "Tierra Bomba", which only comes to my attention because I get my feet massaged without being asked at the city beach "Bocagrande". The lady introduces herself as Milaidis while she rubs soap into my feet and tries to sell me a full body massage. I refuse the massage, but pay Milaidis a considerable sum to give me a guided tour of her home village. Milaidis grew up on Tierra Bomba, an island separated from Cartagena by a five-minute fishing boat ride. The island is known for white sand beaches like "Palmera Beach", which tourist boats go to directly, taking the longest possible diversions around the village of "Fuerte Radio", where Milaidis grew up and still lives. The people on Tierra Bomba are doing quite well today thanks to the construction of numerous hotels and the booming tourism. In her childhood, however, Milaidis lived largely without electricity in simple huts.

Even today, the village of Fuerte Radio makes a rather simple impression; the houses, now built of concrete and supplied with electricity and water, are still roofed with sheet metal, the roads are not tarred. The public school gets by with the simplest of infrastructures, and the children play better football on the sandy pitch directly by the sea than most amateur clubs in Europe. A path leads past the modernised hospital to the highest point on the island, from where you can enjoy a beautiful view of the contrast of Cartagena. Over the tin roofs of Tierra Bomba, one looks across the sea directly to the luxury hotel skyline of Cartagena de Indias.

Milaidis gives me a different view of the beach vendors, who are rather annoying for us tourists. "Here on Tierra Bomba we work together. We divide up the beach areas and offer massages. In the evening, the income is divided. Either we all eat, or we all stay hungry."

Although I'm not sure if she means this literally or is exaggerating a bit (Milaidis smiles after every sentence), Milaidis' statement reflects my impression of Cartagena pretty well. A very beautiful but contrasting city where tourists from all over the world drink cocktails, enjoy the indescribable sea breeze and explore the impressive old town - while the majority of its inhabitants fight every day for a more dignified life.

Old town of Cartagena de indias, as the destination is sold in the catalogue (Source: Lonely Planet)

Cartagena de Indias outside the Murallas: Simpler conditions and poverty (Source: Desde Abajo)

Impressions from the village "Fuerte Radio" from Tierra Bomba, the home of Milaidis

Milaidis - the strong woman who always laughs. A foot massage turned into a city tour

Football on the beach: Colombia's future World Cup 2038 squad in training on Tierra Bomba

Children's laughter at the street jewellery sale in the Cafe del Mar on Cartagena